Village Walk Part Four: Banana Plantation and the Batwa Pygmies

As we continued past the healer we stopped at a banana distillery where I learned about the different kinds of banana trees and how they are used to make banana juice, banana beer and banana gin.  It was a remarkable process of harvesting, curing, peeling, foot stomping and distilling.  I was given a small sample of each.  The juice was sweet, the beer was yeasty and the gin was strong.

After that education I was taken to an interpretative centre for the Batwa Pygmy tribe.  The Batwa Pygmies were the local indigenous peoples and they were called the ”Keepers of the Forest” because they lived in and relied exclusively on the "fruits" of the jungle.  Their homes were small huts made out of leaves and branches and they were true hunters and gatherers, hunting small animals with bows and arrows and collecting the many plants and fruits that grow in the rainforest.  Some anthropologists estimate that the Batwa have existed for at least 60 000 years in rainforest.  However, unfortunately this long residence did not given them legal title to the land and in 1991 they were displaced from the forest when the government of Uganda declared the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest a National Park.

They were given no money for their homeland, nor were they given any land in exchange.  Rather they were simply evicted and they were forced to retreat to the neighbouring villages where they faced poverty and discrimination.  There, they were subjected to harsh treatment, were used as cheap labour, experienced extreme poverty and suffered severe health problems.

I have read that many Batwa died during the first few years of being displaced and their very existence was threatened.  They have slowly adapted to village life and in 2001 their situation began to improve as they came under the radar of a number of NGOs such as  the Kellerman Foundation.  As I mentioned in a previous post the Bwindi Community Hospital started as an outreach clinic for the Batwa and Dr. Kellerman provided much needed health care under a large tree.  A partnership with the Kingston based charity Buy-a-Net Malaria Prevention group also allowed basic health care to be extended to people living in 101 remote villages in this mountainous region.  Together we are Stronger!

A Musical Welcome

These pictures display the traditional way of life of the Batwa.  I was met at the edge of the forest by this Batwa man, he played music for me and then let me try his instrument.  Then he lead me to a tree and demonstrated how he would pound off some bark with a stone and eat it.  He handed me a piece and I tried it. It was very bitter.  The Batwa man laughed and Christopher my guide explained the bark contained an ingredient like Viagara and the men would eat portions of it after a long day hunting.  The joke was clearly on me.  Next he lead me to his small hut and invited me in.  I told him not to get any ideas and he laughed so I think he understood more English then he let on.  I was introduced to a few other community members and they performed a few traditional dances.  It was an informative and enjoyable experience!

Source of Viagara?

A individual family hut.

Tradional Hunting Method

Tree House Nursery.  The young children stayed here with an old man when the men and women went out to hunt and gather.

Performance time

They danced vigorously.

A communal hut to eat in when an animal was killed.  

 

Village Walk Part Three: The Traditional Healer

We turned right past the coffee trees and followed a path up a hill until we reached the traditional healer.  This 87 year old man has been working to heal the village for most of his years.  He uses traditional herbs and plants and demonstrated how he prepared the various concoctions.  Before you completely dismiss the process remember that many of our medicines originated from the rainforest.  I was also interested to know that the Bwindi Community Hospital has been establishing a partnership with a few of these healers.  They have worked together to dispel some of the myths that lead to questionable practices while at the same time developing criterion for the healers to agree to refer the patients to the hospital.  I am told that this is having some success and a healer is even employed to work within the hospital complex itself.  But not this fellow.  He is his own agent!

Village Walk Part Two: Farming

Here are a few photos of just a few of the crops grown in the region.  The coffee trees were in full bloom and incredibly fragrant.  The sweet potatoes looked great!

Coffee

More coffee

Sweet potato fries anyone?

Village Walk Part One: The School

After my first big day of gorilla trekking I had arranged for a village tour.  My guide, Christopher, and I wended our way up and downhill through the Buhoma community touring a school, small crop farm plots, a banana plantation, a banana beer and gin distillery, a traditional healer, a Batwa Pygmy interpretative centre and a women's cooperative.  In total it took 4 hours and was very informative.  A lot of hiking for one day but well worth it!  Here are some pictures from the school where we danced with joy!

Happy to see you, Muzungu!

Let's dance

Hope, love and joy!

a 

The boys were not to be outdone!

Even"Old Mrs. Grew" got in the action!

Gorillas galore!

The Mubare family of gorillas appeared to be doing well.  They were relaxed in our presence and we were able to be quite close to them.  Some of the gorillas were in the canopy feeding and others were already getting ready to rest.  Apparently, the gorillas typically feed for a few hours in the morning, have a nap, then awake to feed again.  They may move several times during the day but do not move after nightfall.  The group that we watched had several babies and mothers, a silver back and several smaller males. The lighting and closeness of the undergrowth made photography tricky and most of my pictures are of poor quality.  I did get one decent video clip of a gorilla moving down the path with her baby on her back.  She walked right by me, literally brushing up against my leg.  Amazing.  I tried to upload video to Youtube so I could add it here but the internet speed is too slow. I will need to add it later.  In the meantime here are some memories of the day.  The young couple from New York have promised to send me some of their pictures.  They were better photographers!

Mom and baby.

Eating small fruit.

Pondering our presence.

Turned his back to us!

Just hanging around.

Youth

Silver back

Snout was not white.  That was the sun reflecting.

Time for a rest!

First Gorilla Hike

Had a good sleep in my tented camp which was really just a hotel room under canvas.  A bit of luxury in the jungle.  After breakfast I was driven to the meeting point for the trekkers.  In the Buhoma area of Bwindi, three groups of eight trekkers are allowed one hour with the gorillas each day.  I was one of the lucky eight going to see the Mubare family, a family of 16 gorillas located a 45 minute drive away.  In my 8 were the young New York couple that I met on the Areolink flight.  They were staying at another hotel but we were to hike together after all.

This is where I stayed.

Luxury in the Jungle:  Two kingsized beds in my tent.

There was also a shower and this tub with a window looking out into the rainforest. 

After the drive we began a hike up through a village and into the park.  Most villagers have small farms and I saw small plots of sweet potatoes, bananas, tea, and coffee. The coffee trees were in full bloom and so fragrant.  There was no question as to where the park boundary started.  There was no sign or gate, but there were trees.  It is illegal to cut trees in the park or to harvest any of the native fruits or plants that grow there so as you approach you see a distinct difference in the landscape.

Flame tree in the foreground and tea in the background.

An easy upward start to our hike.

Fragrant coffee tree.

Taking a breather!

Initially we were on a bit of a trail but it was quite rugged in sections.  I had debated as to whether to hire a porter but was so glad that I did. Yes, it was a luxury to have someone carry my pack but the real value was in his assistance with the terrain. I am reasonably fit but my knees have taken a beating over the years and I had tweaked my right achilles two weeks before the trip. Without Johnson's help I am sure that I would have fallen, twisted an ankle or injured a tendon.  He kept me safe.  At $15 US per day, it was the smartest money I spent.  Later I learned that the porters are lucky to get one or at most two days of work per month.  If you ever go to see the gorillas, hire a porter.  You are supporting the local people and like me, you might discover that you really need it.

Me and my porter, Johnson!

This lovely young couple was celebrating a delayed honeymoon, 10 years later!

Blue Devil Fan in the Jungle!

Johnson kept a close and attentive eye on me and had no apparent difficulty with the terrain.  The group included two armed guards with AK47s to protect us from stampeding mountain elephants.  We didn't see any but later I heard that another group did.  They are dangerous and unpredictable.   The group also included two guides with walkie-talkies and they were in constant contact with another two guides who had left hours earlier to locate the gorillas. The length of your hike is unpredictable and depends entirely on where the gorillas decide to be that day.  Trackers locate them and then direct the guides to them.  We were walking one way and I was at the back with Johnson as I was clearly the weakest link in our fairly young group.  At one point there was a lot of walkie talkie traffic we were directed to turn around and head back to where we had come from.  Now I was at the front and Johnson kept pushing me on.   We got separated from the group and were following the head guide and I could tell that we must be getting close.  Now we were deep in the jungle. There was no trail and moving was tricky.  The incline was incredibly steep, the undergrowth was damp and slippery and the vines were a constant trip hazard.  Now I was really glad for Johnson.  A turn or two later and Johnson pulled, whispered and pointed.  There, in front of me was a gorilla.  Eventually the entire trekking group caught up and we moved a bit further ahead to
where we found the silverback and the whole family.  We sat and watched them for an hour.  They were feeding, grooming and resting, all within 8 to 15 feet from us. Later, Johnson
whispered that I was the first to see the gorillas in our group.  I suspected that was what he was up to as he kept pushing me to stay with the tracker.

First sighting!

Arriving at Bwindi

After my clinic visit it was a very short drive to the entrance of the park.  After passing through my driver drove a short distance and then parked on the side of the road.  "This is it", he said.  I looked around but could see no tented camp.  Another glance revealed a series of concrete steps leading up into the forest.  Oh, it is up there somewhere.  And now we walk.  A porter carried my suitcase but still the hike up had me huffing and puffing.  I took it to be the litmus test.  If you can't make it to your room then you have no business trying to see the gorillas.  As I started up the steps I was startled by the most beautiful turquoise butterfly.  It fluttered a few feet in front of me and literally lead me up the path.  So beautiful.  Later, the next day, after I had finished my first gorilla hike, and as I exited the rainforest jungle another similar butterfly fluttered in front of me on the breeze.  She was there, welcoming me to my dream adventure and watching it succeed.  Those of you who know me well will understand the significance of those events!

Park Entrance

I Penetrated the Impenetrable!

View from my table.  This is where I ate my meals!